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Comments
Details please? I think I know what you mean... How is it? a drambo ultra fine tuned synth or like a groove box? Or im totally off base?
Have a look at this video.
I saw it and messaged Orchid straight away.
I don't have the precise instructions yet
but as far as I can tell it's three encoders.
Two stepped rotary switch encoders and
one fader which I'm going to use for cross fading.
YYYYES! I'm so glad it arrived, that was a lot quicker than I expected. Just sent the first part of the guide over, I can't wait to see what you do with it.
@oceansinspace it basically moves the morph / scene fader to a dedicated hardware controller. I usually have a lot going on on my screen, so this lets me offload a bunch to morphs / scenes and not need to keep the Drambo window open. I use it for presets, filters, sequence / probability changes, crossfading, etc – pretty versatile. Plus it's so much more precise for my slippery fingers than the touchscreen fader!
(And here's the original post @oceansinspace: https://forum.audiob.us/discussion/41372/i-made-a-tiny-drambo-morph-scene-controller)
Oh INSANE dude, that's cash money. You also won a year of donuts!
Damned UPS...
I just added a laser cutter to my toolset, time to get crafty!
Where are you?
I need a laser cutter.
I'm in the states, in Colorado. Right now I just have a small format 40w laser cutter for making project cases and the like. I'm hoping to get my garage in good enough order that next spring I can build a larger unit.
I can't wait for some holiday time off. I've been wanting to dabble with some MIDI controllers. This article has some cool ideas from a guy that designed a series of 3D printable, point-to-point wired controllers.
https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/johan-von-konows-new-open-source-midi-synth-can-be-3d-printed-for-6-178516/
I have a laser cutter, I’m in the UK. If that’s nearer for you, let me know what you need doing and I’ll hep if I can.
@Liquidmantis
Thanks for the link.
It's going to come in handy in the future.
@TheOriginalPaulB
That's certainly nearer me.
I'm in London.
I'm designing an enclosure for my Jambo.
I would like it to be laser cut and etched with a custom design.
Hand cut metal wouldn't suit it.
Ok. Basic facts about CO2 lasers, they will not cut metal. There’s not enough energy in the beam. They can mark metal using products like Cermark, which cook on to the surface of the metal. Options for cutting and engraving with a CO2 laser are MDF, laser grade plywood and some laser safe plastics, such as cast and extruded acrylic. Cutting thickness depends on tube wattage and lens focal length, with 40W limited to 6mm or so up to about 12mm for a 150W tube.
To cut and engrave metal, you’d need access to a fibre laser, which is a far more expensive piece of kit and probably out of the price range of anyone on this forum.
Your best bet here is an acrylic panel. You can get multilayered acrylic that sandwiches different colours together so that an engrave can reveal the 2nd colour underneath the surface.
I haven’t worked with acrylic so far, I’m used to MDF and ply.
Bastl Instruments had a whole product line with wooden front panels:
Thanks, this is all good to know especially as I don't know
a thing about laser cutters except they can cut stuff.
Hhhmm interesting especially the multilayered acrylic approach.
Brilliant, I was thinking about using wood for the base and sides
and metal for the top panel of Jambo with a removable lid for
travelling when going for performances.
Even getting the base and sides done in wood rather
than searching for a third party enclosure would be great.
Also do you know someone who can do metal work or has
access to CNC machines? I think that's what they are called.
I opened to check out Jambo and got lost in the amazing tune. So good!. Plus an amazing use of scenes, I wish I could check out how the project is setup. Im guessing different tracks set to mute or not mapped to scene. And Jambo, obviously very, very cool. 🙌
Good suggestion.
I would like the metal plate on top to have the essence of a
guitar scratch plate with curves rather than being straight lined.
I been thinking about copper and brass as
a section rather than a complete top panel.
with @TheOriginalPaulB'S suggestion about acrylics
I'm doing a rethink about the design.
Clear acrylic would be cool as it would show
the pcb breadboard and the components inside
which is a part of how I would like it to look.
Wood is definitely a part of the design though.
I quite like the grain on aromatic cedar wood
and cedar wood is particularly lovely when polished up.
Oh...
I started the wiring yesterday and finished it today.
It's not the best wiring but it works.
I'm going to rewire it with better wire as I used 24 AWG stranded cable
(showing my inexperience here) rather than solid core wire.
Still saying that, it works.
Ooohhhh. Do you mind sharing the make / model?
Nope, not at all. I went with this Orion Motor K40. I bought a cheaper one from Vevor first, but it was garbage. The one from Orion was packaged a lot better and the overall construction quality is much higher.
The working size is obviously very limited with these K40 units, but it's enough for small projects. I'm impressed enough with the quality on this Orion Motors unit that I would consider one of their larger models.
Glowforge and Dremel models are definitely comparatively overpriced. You're paying for a highly polished cutter with a well-supported ecosystem.
Oh shit. That is just too cool and the size is OK for me. Dammit. If it was, like $500 more I wouldn't even be tempted. That's smack the middle of that affordable but massive guilt and doubt raising range.
On the other hand ... if the wife sees it ... she'll have to have one. Maybe I can arrange it so she accidentally sees it.
Ha! "Look what I got you, babe!"
Making things with fire is awesome, but make sure you know what you're getting into with these budget models. You might have to do things like deal with mirror alignment out of the box. You also have to be prepared to set up good ventilation and understand the safety requirements as these don't come equipped with protection against running the laser with the door open, or against running without the water cooling pump running to protect the laser tube. Think of these as a cost-saving kit where you might have to do the final tuning.
For example last night I modded my brand new laser cutter to add an analog ammeter so that I know how much current I'm running through the laser tube. These K40s will let you push more current through the laser tube than you should, which shortens the life of the tube, and the digital control ones don't give you any indication of how much current you're pushing. On mine it looks like 35% power on the digital control is about as much as I'd want to run in order to maximize the tube life.
I don’t, I’m afraid.
Okay cool, I'll start asking around.
As soon as I've got a design that I think
is doable do you mind if I contact you?
Not at all.
Awesome.
Thanks.
@Liquidmantis
Now that my first round of wiring is complete
I took a moment to look at the link you posted.
Those look really cool.
Do you know what they sound like?
Are they durable?
Do you think they would be feasible for performing?
Sorry, I just found that link the other day and added it to my projects-to-do list and haven't built any of them yet. But it's largely just MIDI controllers, not actual sound generators, although I think he mentioned working on a synth engine, too.
I've been interested in ways to make custom hands-on controllers for a more tactile, hardware-like interface for iOS apps, just like this Jambo controller.
From the article you posted I read that they could be
used as a keyboard, drum machine etc and presumed
that they also generated sound.
Myself also.
Those 3D printer controllers look really cool.
Considering the price they could be really
good additions for iOS apps.
Oops, I didn't see this until now @tahiche. I'm happy to share the project files! I'm hosting it in AUM and controlling DRC with some MIDI outs – let me know what you're interested in checking out and I can try to export it into something shareable