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Using Power Banks as power supplies

Hi Friends,
I am interested in using a USB-C power bank as a power source for some devices that draw very small amounts of power. Specifically a WIDI JACK and a SOLO joystick (from sevenmilemountain)
My setup worked great nfor a couple of days but after that it became intermittent even when the powerbank was recharged. The power bank is an Onn Juice portable battery for smartphones, tablets and other USB charge devices. 4k mAh capacity.

As I investigated this online I found the type C power banks are very much more complicated than I anticipated. They have to negotiate with the device to decide if they need to charge it or be charged by it. Also, they may turn themselves off if the load is too small. In addition the 3.5V or 5V differences can cause problems. And finally if you unplug and plug back in within a certain time frame they can behave differently.

I freely admit it is too much for me and would appreciate any help in finding a stable solution.

I admit that it is too much fo

Comments

  • A couple points that hopefully help.

    Onn is an ok brand, but for something that you want to rely on a bit more consider Anker, they make quality products.

    Also 4,000 Mah is pretty low these days even if your devices do not pull much power you probably want something at least 10k mah if not higher.

    It’s weird that it worked fine for a few days then stopped.

    There are a few threads on this forum about usb c hubs, usb c power banks, etc… if you use the forum search bar you should be able to find some good information that might help.

  • Your widi jack gets its power through the midi out on the joystick. This might not be enough.
    The widi jack also has a usb c port for additional power. Try to connect that to your battery pack.

  • Is that power bank made for multiple devices to draw power from?

    Sometimes the power bank will have 2 ports but one is for charging the power bank and one is for sending power out. Instead of a power bank that is made to power multiple devices. I’m speculating here but does the bank definitely have multiple power outs?

  • There are cheap tiny USB-C modules you can buy that all that they do is advertise that they want 12V and just pass that through. I can't remember what they're called though 😢

  • heshes
    edited February 25

    I can't tell from OP's description, but many USB chargers will turn themselves off if they sense that only a tiny amount of power is being drawn. If you're trying to provide power for devices that draw tiny amounts of power (e.g., bluetooth dongles) you may need to search for chargers that will work well with them. These are typically described as having as "trickle charge mode", "Low power mode", "always on mode", or something similar. Brands that make some of their chargers with this feature include Anker, RavPower, and others.

    Here's a link to an Anker device that has trickle charge mode for bluetooth accessories:"A trickle-charging mode is designed specifically to provide safe, stable charging to low-power devices such as Bluetooth earphones and speakers. " : https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Portable-10000mAh-Delivery/dp/B08GKL41V4?th=1#productDetails

    Also, nothing specific to USB-C chargers with this problem driving low power devices. I've dealt with it with USB-A port chargers driving my wind controllers.

    Also, in diagnosing problem you may need to account for fact that the low-power device in fact draws more power while it is being used. So, e.g., if you're sending data through bluetooth dongle it may be fine for hours, until you stop sending data, device becomes idle and draws less power, and charger times out and turns off after 60 seconds (or whatever period it uses) of lower power delivery.

  • I'm using a 10000mAh ADATA P10000QCD (USB PD 3.0) to power an iPad Air 2022 and a Zoom AMS-22 interface via a Belkin USB-C to 4-port USB-C hub.

  • Thank you all so much for your input. I have some info from the developer of the SOLO joystick, Ron Nelson of sevenmilemountain products.
    Reply from Ron
    Message:

    I've found that some smart powerbanks will turn the output power off if there isn't sufficient >current draw. The microcontroller in the SOLO is low power (<20mA -- about the same as a >>single 5mm LED). The behavior I've seen is that they power for a period of time (depends -- >sometimes a couple of seconds, sometimes a minute) -- then power down.

    What may be happening is that the WIDI and SOLO are both going into low power mode, >bank turns off, then weird behavior as they attempt to draw more power again.

    I've run a SOLO with an el cheapo dollar store bank -- maybe 2000 mAh if it's lucky -- for 24 >hours straight. It's "dumb" so just stays on.

    Other thing -- if you are powering the WIDI from the SOLO's TRS jack -- the SOLO is likely not >supplying enough power. It natively runs on 3.3V (there's a buck converter on the board >which brings USB 5V down to 3.3). And the current limiting resistors on the TRS side (to >prevent over-powering).

    Ron has been very helpful and communicative. He has a very interesting product line for musicians.

    I seem to have best results when I power both the WIDI and the SOLO joystick whether from two powerbanks or a powerbank and a charger.
    I intend to buy two small powerbanks and see how that works. I would like to find a powerbank that has two USB-C outputs. Size matters as I would like to keep the power module as small and light as practical.

    I had not considered a hub because I think of hubs in terms of data as opposed to power but I may need to review that idea.

    Thanks again for your input everyone.👀🎶

  • I forgot to mention that I also have a Romoss 10k power bank that I have been experimenting with as a second power supply. I don’t believe the 10k is needed. It is just a second supply point. I have used this powerbank for several years and it has been a workhorse.

    The Onn powerbank I believe has more than enough mAh because it did work for a few days with much use on one charge.
    I was blown away by the fact that plugging/unplugging a cable would change the output of a powerbank but I have verified it is true. This is a level of complication that is not desired.

  • This is interesting. I was using a recently acquired power bank (https://www.belkin.com/p/3-port-laptop-power-bank-20k/BPB020btBK.html) yesterday to charge a hub to which my USB mic was connected.

    I was sometimes just getting the mic dropping out completely and I needed to reconnect the hub to get it working again. Maybe it's due to some of the issues mentioned in this thread. Very frustrating.

  • When using a hub just connect another usb device to up the power draw.
    Does the joystick send midi over usb? This would eliminate the need for a bluetooth connection.
    Using a rechargeable bluetooth game controller might be another usefull aproach.

  • @Alfred said:
    When using a hub just connect another usb device to up the power draw.
    Does the joystick send midi over usb? This would eliminate the need for a bluetooth connection.
    Using a rechargeable bluetooth game controller might be another usefull aproach.

    Thanks for your input.
    The wireless is the whole point. I am using this joystick for live performance on my electronic accordion. I don’t want ANY wires attached.

  • I just purchased an Anker 321 Power Bank (PowerCore 5k). I think it just might fit the bill. It has one USB-C and one USB-A each output port. It is advertised to power two devices at the same time. It can be set for a trickle charge for low power devices.It is small and lightweight.
    I am waiting for it to charge now.
    I will let you all know how it works.

  • USB A outputs are mostly direct outputs without smartness. I use USB A for some devices, USB C for others. For example, a light panel for film/camera from 2018 has a USB C port for charging, but it does not charge from a power bank’s USB C output, only from the power bank’s USB A output. A light panel from 2024, also with USB C charging port, works with both A and C.

    Generally, if something does not charge, or stops charging with USB C, use USB A and A-to-C cable.

  • edited February 25

    .

  • My learning here is that Roland have an electric accordion…that’s special.

  • @Mountain_Hamlet said:
    My learning here is that Roland have an electric accordion…that’s special

    Actually Roland has had a line of digital electronic accordions for several years. Korg just released a new one also. In many parts of the world accordions are very popular.

  • @Bellows said:
    I just purchased an Anker 321 Power Bank (PowerCore 5k). I think it just might fit the bill. It has one USB-C and one USB-A each output port. It is advertised to power two devices at the same time. It can be set for a trickle charge for low power devices.It is small and lightweight.
    I am waiting for it to charge now.
    I will let you all know how it works.

    Whoo Hoo
    Initial testing is all systems go. It turns out you double press a button on the powerbank and it goes into low power mode for charging ear buds and such. I used the USB-A output port 1st because the cable was included with the charger.I connected it to the SOLO joystick. Then I connected the TRS midi out of the SOLO joystick to the WIDI JACK wireless.
    EVERYTHING WORKED!!!
    I have only run it a couple of hours and the connection is very stable and working. I do not anticipate more problems but I can always connect the other USB-C port to the WIDI JACK wireless if needed.
    Thank you all for your help.

  • @Phil999 said:
    USB A outputs are mostly direct outputs without smartness. I use USB A for some devices, USB C for others. For example, a light panel for film/camera from 2018 has a USB C port for charging, but it does not charge from a power bank’s USB C output, only from the power bank’s USB A output. A light panel from 2024, also with USB C charging port, works with both A and C.

    Generally, if something does not charge, or stops charging with USB C, use USB A and A-to-C cable.

    This may be the reason this setup worked .Thanks

  • Turned out to be an interesting discussion in this one.

    Happy to see you found a solution @Bellows

    I like that Anker Pocket Sizer PowerBank, I might have to get one of those. Cheers.

  • edited March 5

    also worth mentioning for power banks are modern (2024 and later) V-Mount batteries, usually used for professional camera gear and lights. They have USB C in- and outputs, and often also a low output USB A.

    Advantages compared to standard power banks:

    • support for 5/9/12/16V output of multiple protocols (Apple, QC, PD, Qualcomm) over USB C
    • high amperage output over USB C. You can run a modern iPad Pro with bright screen with USB C hub, power an audio interface, external MIDI controllers, etc.
    • high capacity, although there are also 50Wh models. 100-200Wh last longer, and don’t necessarily have to be more expensive.

    The one I got is $90 from Palo. 199Wh. It powers a cinema camera, a motorised gimbal, and a 3000 nit monitor for hours (using its D-Tap output with D-Tap splitter). It is also the workhorse for video editing/grading. Powers iPad Pro, external editor/grading controllers, several external SSD’s.

    However, the search for affordable V-Mount batteries is not so easy. Many brands sell their 99Wh batteries for $250-350, and the one I got is now over $110 and out of stock. Also, a good USB C hub is required for powering multiple devices. If you haven’t one, you have to factor one in.

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