Loopy Pro: Create music, your way.
What is Loopy Pro? — Loopy Pro is a powerful, flexible, and intuitive live looper, sampler, clip launcher and DAW for iPhone and iPad. At its core, it allows you to record and layer sounds in real-time to create complex musical arrangements. But it doesn’t stop there—Loopy Pro offers advanced tools to customize your workflow, build dynamic performance setups, and create a seamless connection between instruments, effects, and external gear.
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Comments
Check this out boys and girls
Isn’t that impressive
What i need to know is will the onboard mic take input with simultaneous DI capturing
If I didn’t recently get a Pocket Master I’d be all over this. But the PM fills my needs for now. Looks neat tho!
Thanks @yellow_eyez. My wife and I have been taking long camping trips (we have a small trailer) and I’ve been planning to buy a travel-sized interface. This little thing looks so ideal that I just ordered one at Sweetwater.
Awesome 🤘
Glad it grabbed someone by the b@!!$ like it did me! I think I might possibly end up with one as it’s all in 1, USB C class compliant , if I ever up my game….lol
Have fun and safe travels on the road
Speaking of LTD ESP. I have one from the far end of the budget. It is a EC-50 w LH-150 mics (I think) and for what it cost, I'm really happy with it. If I get the code right it's built by Samick July 2009(!?) in Indonesia (that one is hard to miss). 😃
I read a review where the author recommend changing nut and bridge: "Tuners aren't bad, really. It was just the nut and poor quality bridge that made EC-50 go out of tune. These are inexpensive to replace."
I really don't like the Tuners as they're so inconsistent (some are hard to turn) but, I do want to change the nut, but how do I get the correct one? And what'sa good replacement bridge (budget)? Any advise would be appreciated/
I'm trying to do a reamp recording with drop - D and I'm about to go insane. According to the tuner apps I'm fine but when I start playing, my ears say otherwise. With loads of distortion and just messing about, I'm fine but recording is different.
If I deliberately lower the D strings to a few negative cents it get's better but that's not how I want it and will it be fine to play along with for other recordings?
I have a cousin who in his late 50's started o learn to play (that is cool in my eyes), maybe 2 years ago now, and he also collects like you Chris. Not your price range but some good ones (he has, for some reason, a thing for Zac Wylde (spellin?)) and got one of his signature models.
Maybe he can lend me one...
I'd be grabbed by the balls if it was device powered. I know it's rechargeable (4hrs).
But what's going on here. Seems to record with no physical connection to the device and has a built in microphone. Sweet.
@Ailerom dude I think it’s USB C with the phone out of view , that’s all….otherwise that’d be one helluva device at an amazing price point haha yeah I mean it’s rechargeable battery so I’m cool with that, tho device powered is definitely possible , at least with an iPad for sure . So idk if you can do that ??? I tried to find a manual and was unsuccessful
@Pxlhg id love to see that - zakks rebel stars and bars was one of my fave LP ever and almost got my hands on it if I wasn’t late. But it wasn’t meant to be - I’m a Japanese guitar guy (Ibanez. And esp) but I appreciate any beautiful instrument - or any beautiful thing really. And zakks LP would be awesome to have one day too !! To me idc about the $$$ value of guitars, I mean it’s just coincidental that the ones I got were insanely high, but that’s through two decades of trading and half a year of crazy drive and luck to literally finish this off. Don’t want GAS to blind me how it has previously - I’ll stick to writing and playing now
Here it is, I know nothing about it or what he payed. Fuck, that was more than 2 years ago, time flies.
But why. What's the point of presenting it in an unrealistic context. It's not a Big Mac.
I couldn't find anyting to suggest device power. Just that it can be powered by USB while attached to a device at the same time (2 USB-C slots)
Many a successful sale are from mistaken consumer preconceptions . Some people Want something bad so when they see the possibility of the sale pitch image with either confusing (or tricky
wording) they jump the gun and bite the bullet thinking/hoping they are right.
I think this picture is a case because not only is shown twice but the wording of the thing is a bit convoluted (it says 4x4 I/o simultaneous recording but then it says somewhere else 1In-1Out…it mentions multitrack mode as if to suggest maybe those 4 would be separate channels,but does so while “including loop playback”, so what 4x4 simultaneous are they talking about)? So I’m confused about a few things lol hopefully a good review or feedback soon.
I'm on the same page with you. I was just being a bit of a dick. Maybe I'm better at that than I thought
@Ailerom : maybe so man hahahaha [j/k] nah dude - it’s on me! I totally missed the “Sweet.” At the end…totally caught the dry humor now and
But seriously I’m really annoyed with the lack of literature and or YT dive on it because as you know I just got my first tube amp and micing it isn’t something I can do confidently , but I’m so curious to see how good it can sound with this - heck I might just buy and try and return , I mean that’s the point of 45 day return policy , I don’t wanna buy and return but if it doesn’t fit then why the the hit ?
I can’t wait to hear about it from schmotown
@Pxlhg thats Zakks new sig line, but it’s Nice. Love the Ruin inlays
I have the Shure MVi or something like that (sorry, can never remember the name). It's great except I am always toggling the power in and out as it has to be turned on, after starting an app, to be recognised. I'd upgrade to something in a similar price bracket just to have it more system visible. I wonder is there anything like that, or is the Shure behaviour the norm.
That Zak is nice. Not sure about the lower edge, but it reminded me straight away of the Guild S100. I think that is the only other guitar I'd consider buying right now. But as someone who can't get along with a Gibson SG shape/neck, I'm not sure if I'd like the feel as much as the sound.
Yeah I had an SG. It was my first proper guitar (after my starter Ibanez) and I got it before I knew what the difference was between a guitar, I just thought thought it was cool and it was a Gibson for $900 so why not? It’s a specific feel. It’s weird cuz the body is so light, thin and compact (and maybe Gibson coolest design honestly) but the neck is so heavy and FAT, Whcih is the opposite of what I like to play. I love the SG, but I don’t think they’re for me either.
Have you tried adjusting the nut for that one string? It may be that the drop D is in tune but the string length isn't exactly right for playing notes as you move up the neck.
To adjust the nut, first tune the open string. Then play a note on the 12th fret and check if that's in tune. If not, then loosen or tighten the adjuster to bring the harmonic into tune. Don't try to get it perfect in one try because you'll find that the open string is likely to go out of tune when you move the nut. You'll have to go back and forth until you get it right or at some reasonable compromise.
IMPORTANT: it's a good idea to write down the amount you adjust the nut, or make a mark on the string so that you can put things back where they were if it doesn't work out, or if tuning back to E doesn't sound right.
Thank you @wim, I should have tried that. I'm assuming you are talking about the parts on the bridge (red) that can be adjusted, I didn't know they were called nut as well, I do not have an adjustable nut on the head (do they even exist). I really don't want to admit this but I took a small file to the nut when I just got the guitar and were changing strings and of course I took just a bit too much away (esp. on D) - that's why I want a new one (but don't know which), not only because some reviewer said so. A string mark (green) is a great suggestion. Sorry about the dust but do you see anything wrong with bridge part positions, I 've been on those too but don't recall initial positions. I read (again!) they should be like this (image) with E-low the furthest away and E-high closest, to the head nut.
Nut or saddle? I can't imagine how you would adjust the nut for one string. The bridge saddle is where you would normally make these intonation adjustments. Which is what it sounds like, an intonation issue.
It's a pretty simple fix but does require a little knowledge, a good tuner and some patience. But I will do a little prayer that it's not a floating tremolo.
-Double post-
That's a bridge saddle, not a nut. I have no doubt an adjustable nut is a thing but it far, far from a common one. I've never heard of one, or seen one. Plenty of tutorials online for adjusting intonation.
My advice is to tune it how you would normally use the guitar. Just thinking about the low (fattest) E string. Tune it (and the rest with a clip on tuner or if an app, while plugged in). Pluck it (the open string), then lightly fret the same string at 12th fret. If 12th fret is sharp, adjust the saddle in small increments (quarter to half a turn depending on how sharp) away from the neck. If it is flat, do the opposite direction. Make sure to de-tension the string and then re-tune after making adjustments.
Also, is it the bridge saddle or nut you filed?
Thanks for those complementary notes. I guess wim was just tired.
The nut and I know I took to much, shouldn't have touched it at all but, sometimes I do stupid because, I am.
The nut is an easier fix, although bridge parts like that one would be available so you could buy another saddle. But as it's a nut issue, a new one wouldn't be expensive. Just a matter of buying a replacement and putting the new one on. A little super glue is all I ever use. You can also repair them with tape, powder of some sort and super glue. But then you have to file the new slot in.
It's not very expensive with a new nut I just wanna get the correct one. I'm messing about with the saddles now, turns out the high E was a bit off as well. Well maybe I should start with saying the low E is off so it's a good start to get it fixed. You know I've been messing with all kinda things: truss, nut, bridge height and saddles. Maybe it's a miracle it's playable at all 😁
Jokes aside though, do you gents (and possibly ladys) use this tuner. It's the only one I know that are AuV3 and one purpose. I mean there are many built in in various amps what have you but I want this, singled. BUT, it drives me nut (🙃) with it's flickery and inconsistent behaviour. What do you use?
In Logic Pro, I keep Logic’s native tuner as the first tile in the plugins area of the guitar channel. Always on, always visible. I recently started using Loopy Pro and there I’ve been using the Nembrini tuner shown in the picture.
My favorite tuners, by far, are strobe tuners. There’s one of those built into Gigfast Lite and it’s excellent. The iStroboSoft app by Peterson is probably the best of all but it’s not a plugin, unfortunately.
The only iOS tuner I use is the Strobosoft one. (https://apps.apple.com/us/app/istrobosoft/id308296029)
I'm not sure what good ones there are as auv3.
I'm not surprised about the intonation. The saddle positions look pretty strange to me. Tinkering is good to learn. You just have to be careful not to go too far. A good rule is to work in quarter turn increments. And for the truss rod in particular. It can take a few minutes for the impact of truss rod adjustments to be fully revealed. And if you are not counting how far you've turned and in what direction it's easy to make things worse.
I have Gigfast Lite but did not know it has a strobe tuner. Will have to look at that. The Petersen one is the original as far as I know, be a hardware device for many years. And it's great how the tuning coarseness has 4 levels. Very accurate in my experience.
I just looked at the Gigfast tuner again and it may not be a real strobe, more like strobe-ish with the little wheel at the bottom. Still a good one.
I do use the Nembrini tuner. How hard are you picking the strings ? You should pick fairly lightly.
Maybe a hardware tuner would serve you better.
My bad @Pxlhg and @Ailerom - it was late. I confused the term "nut" for "saddle / bridge".
Having actually built more than one guitar, that slip-up surprises even me.
Sorry for all the confusion and wasted posts.
Yes, pick, or pluck lightly. And possibly more important is pick/pluck in the same location and same force.
If that's the worst slip up your mouth has it's a better day than I usually have. A few days ago I was trying ask a salesman if the necks were the same on 2 jackson's, not realising one was an ibanez. A legitimate senior moment.